Morocco - royal cities, beaches, desert and mountains

My dear friends,

when I first started to write my blog, my target was 1-2 articles per week. It worked when I was living in Barcelona. Since I started to work in Prague, I don´t have time for blogging at all which is really pitty because I have so many recommendations especially about travelling. 3 weeks ago I had a presentation about Morocco on the biggest Travel festival in the Czech Republic - http://kolemsveta.cz/

So, because of that, it forced me to write an article related to Morocco. I visited this beautiful country this summer. When I was 20 years old, I actually booked a tour with some outdoor travel agency. However then I got an offer going to Italy as a babysitter for the summer and that´s what I did. So, Morocco stayed on my bucket list for 10 more years.

I organized 2 weeks of holiday in Morocco during this July. We were 3, then 6, then 4 and at the end 5 people. The organization wasn´t easy but I think that I managed it well.

Some information:

- 2 weeks of holiday in Morocco cost me 20 000 CZK - one of the cheapest holiday in my life

- Morocco is safe country so you if you still wonder if you should go there in terms of safety, you definitely can

- don´t go to Arabic country for a holiday during the Ramadan - check the dates first

- buy cheap flight tickets with Ryanair - direct flight: Prague - Marrakesh

- Arabic or French - the most used languages. If you don´t speak any of these languages, lots of people also speak English and in the North they know Spanish.

- Currency: Moroccan dirham (1 MAD = 2,4 CZK)

- search for restaurant where locals go (not the one recommended on tripadvisor, the worst it looks, the cheaper it gets and also more delicious)

- if you rent a car - we arranged it there in our hostel, price: per day = 771 CZK, for 8 days total: 6300 CZK. The contrack was in French.

- driving a car - short distances on the map, but it takes a long time

- don´t forget about vaccination - it is not obligatory, but there are few recommended

- the insurance - always check the height above the sea level - for the mountains lovers

- There is a exchange office at the aiport in Marrakesh, the rate is not so bad

- departure from Marrakesh - you have to stand in the queue as if you checked your baggage (even if you have just carry on luggage, they give you some stamp) + you need to print your boarding pass!
- there are cats literally everywhere, some of the stories are really heartbroken 

Your bucket list in Morocco can look like this:
- eat Tajine - typical Moroccan meal
- drink Moroccan tea with lots of sugar
- ride a camel in the desert
- visit mosque
- rest on the beach - you can try surfing (I didn´t)
- buy some Argain oil
- drink juices from fresh oranges every day
- visit a market in Medina (old historical parts in the cities)
- visit some royal citie in the North of Morocco

There was one thing on my bucket list I was absolutely sure about but of course it doesn´t have to be on yours - climbing the highest mountain in the North of Africa.

The itinerary:
Marrakesh
Tanger
Chefchaouen
Rabat
Fes
Casablanca
Waterfalls Ouzoud
Ourzazate
Desert Merzouga
Ait Ben Haddou
Jebel Toubkal
Essaouira

Example of prices:
- Marrakech - Tangier night train: 518 CZK
- bottle of water (0,5 l.): 12 CZK
- Crepes with nuttela: Rabat -19 CZK - Rabat, Essaouira - 36 CZK
- Banana: 5 CZK
- Tea: 12 CZK
- Entrance to Casablanca Mosque: 312 CZK
- Coconut biscuit on the street: 5 CZK
- Hairdresser: 48 CZK
- Snails (big portion): 24 CZK
- Omelette: 24 CZK
- Glass of camel milk: 72 CZK
- Parking: 12 CZK
- Coca cola in the restaurant: 24 CZK
- Juice from fresh fruits: in the city - 12 CZK, in the mountains - 24 CZK (also difference between glass and plastic)
- Accommodation: 200 - 250 CZK / person / night

As you can see Morocco can be quite cheap. 1 euro = 25,5 CZK.

Marrakesh

The airport is just 8 km from the city centre. Jemaa El - Fna square is the biggest attraction = huge market place. A tip: find some cafe with a terrace - the viewes are spectacular. Get lost in the streets of Medina (the old part of the city). It´s very easy by the way. I couldn never find again some shop even if I wanted to. 

A story: We took a night train from Marrakesh to Tangier - my advice: buy tickets together. We didn´t. I bought one ticket and then my friends Karel and Sarka bought another tickets. I was supposed to sit in different part of the train because of that. I went there to see how it looks and there I found 5 man. I mean, Morocco is safe but I was a little worried that I will sit alone the whole night with 5 local men - I am small, thin and I totally look like I am not from here. So, I managed to sit close to my friends because the seats near them were free. However a guy behind me had a huge bag which fell on my head during the way - I survived that but I was really angry, I had a little headache. Then, when I fall asleep my friends changed their seats which I didn´t know about so I was there practically alone because I didn´t see them anywhere - another scarry moment. Then the train stopped for like 30 minutes and turned off all the lights. So, there was a total dark.. Well, when I look at it today, I have to smile. But back then, I was a little terrified. And also, during the whole night it was really cold. And this is how it looks when you travel low cost. Of course, we could pay for a bed in the train, but I wanted second class.

Tanger

There is a harbour, so called "gate to Morocco or Africa itself", about 700 000 inhabitants. In the past the city was considered as a center of vices. Close to Spain = if you speak Spanish, you will be fine.

Chefchaouen

So called Blue city - very nice for instagram pictures :-) Why is it all blue? According to one theory the Jewish refugees believed that longer you are looking at the sky, then more you are thinking about the God.

Rabat
The capital city of Morocco. Some people say it is the most beautiful one. There is a royal palace (however this king moved to Marrakesh). You can find there also the Mausoleum of Mohammed V (the last resting place of Father Hassan II and the grandfather of the present king). This place has to be really specials because all Moroccans I saw, were taking selfies there.

A story: We went to the beach. There were only locals. When I travel, I always try to respect local culture. Which means that I I didn't show up in a swimsuit. The water was too cold for me anyway. I was just walking at the beach which to be honest I love the most. One walk and I could have around 10 husbands.

Fes 

One of the royal cities. Consists of 9400 streets, 185 mosque. Difficult to navigate. Very touristique, higher prices. Historical part is Unesco. Tannery - you can see it but you have to pay some local guy who will let you enter into "his" bulding - very good business. 

A story: at the beginning we had argue about the price with local guy who was apparently the boss of all taxi in the city. And we said that we will not make a business for him. After that we couldn´t stop any car because there was only one taxi company... And we also almost entered the police bus instead of regular one. At the end we decided to walk.

Casablanca

The biggest city in Morocco. It looks like you are in Europe. Famous movie - Casablanca. People dress up really nicely here. MUST: go to Hassan II Mosque which you can visit also if you are not religious. It is second biggest mosque in the world and totally worth for the experience. 

A story: I booked the appartment on booking website and the owner assumed that I am a man (she called me sir in every message) and I assumed that she is a man - didn´t know that women do this kind of business here. The appartment was really huge and nice. The only problem were the cockroaches in the hall.

Another story:I had my hair cut and it cost me 48 czk (less than 2 euros).

 

Waterfalls Ouzoud

The largest and most impressive waterfalls in Morocco. Located 150 km from Marrakesh.

A story: My friends were hungry so we went to eat. As my friend Honza always says: "Misa, even prisoners have the right to eat at least one par day aprropriate meal!" This is a touristic place so basically all the options are bad. Anyway, I ordered an omelette. They gave me an omelette + french fries (all together). My friend Ondra didn´t order anything and the guy gave him a french friends for free. Just like that. When I was about to pay, he told me different price for the omelette than the one which was written on the menu. He said that the price didn´t include the french fries but they serve it together. Well, I didn´t order any french fries, I just wanted the omelette. My friend Ondra get some french fries for free. So, I started to be a little angry and had an argument with this guy. At the end, he gave me the money back and was quite rude. I didn´t really care about the amount of the money - it was all very cheap if I compare it to my country, but this was a question of a principle.

Ourzazate

So called "Sahara Gate" or "Hollywood Morocco". There is one of the largest film studios in the world (Atlas studio) - for example Mummies and Game of Thrones were filmed here. Have you ever watched the Sex in the city 2? The king lent for a movie his albino camels which only the royal family owns so they are very special and rare.

A story: I had to fight for myself again. This time when we went for a breakfast. I argued about the prices and of course I was right, so at the end they changed the amount of money which I was supposed to pay.

Desert Merzouga

Accommodation in nomadic camps where you get on a camel (price on booking.com is only for accommodation - our contact was: Desert Camel trek) + you pay for camel + dinner (tajin) + breakfast (Bedouin omelette) and tip for guide. The total amount is still acceptable. My came was in charge of all other camels and his name is Bob Marley.

A story: Take enough water - we did not have and we had a problem !!! Instead of water, I put into my bag totallly useless things which I didn´t use.

We had to leave the camels in the desert and walk at night because the wind was blowing and it was very difficult to find a good way for them. On the way to camp we met a scorpion. 

We were sleeping under the stars, dancing and playing instruments with locals. In the morning we went to snowboarding in the desert and to see the sunrise.

After the trip - on my request - for the first time in my life - camel milk.

Ait Ben Haddou

Part of UNESCO, quick stop on the way from the Ourzazate to Imlil. So called "Hollywood in the Desert" shooting movies - Lawrence of Arabia, Jesus of Nazareth, Gladiator etc. Composed of many castles (kasby) rock. 

A story: We paid some money to a local guy (his friend convinced us we have to go his way) which presented the place as the entrance to the museum and historical part. There was absolutely nothing! We could save the money if we went just behind the corner. I had a bad feeling about it. Next time I will listen my intuition.

Jebel Toubkal

Climbing the highest mountain of North of Africa was one of my wishes. It has 4 167 metres above the sea level. I never got that high before. It is 2 days trek. The mountain guide is obligatory! You can sleep in the chalet Refuge du Toubkal but book the place in advance. If you wake up next morning in the chalet and you have a headache, it is not a good sign and you shouldn´t go to the top.

A story: Our alarm clock was at 2:30 am, breakfast at 3:00, departure from the chalet at 3:30. I didn´t sleep at all because my friend Ondra next to me was took over 2 beds. So, I was tired, sleepy, sick because I ate too much of fake nutella for a breakfast + stomach problems. It wasn´t easy. We met some group of Czech people who had to give up the way (too much windy). At the top it was really hard for me to breathe and I was going very slowly. I just wanted to cry. But at the same time I was truly happy that I managed it. On the way back I fall down a couple of times, I had a few bruises and I destroyed my pants by Nord Blanc brand. We could barely walked following 3 days. If I knew all this, I would definitely do that again. I am very prould of myself because I pushed my limits.

I have a 22 l bag - going to Morocco for 2 weeks. My friend Ondra has a 55 l bag and going to Morocco for 1 week. Is that make sense? :-)

We really made friends with our guide so after the climbing he invited us to his home to have a tea and some snack. It was one of my secret wish to have an invitation like this and see someone´s house.

The best guide you can have when you go to Jebel Toubkal. His name is Ahmed and he has a whatsup: +212678138934. 

Essaouira

After the climbing to a Jebel Toubkal, I planned resting in the city Essaouira which is known for a sea, beach, surfing, harbour. There is a huge and famous fish market. I recommend buying souvenirs here - prices are lower. Local cats have the best life here from all over Morocco (stealing the fish from fish market).

On the way
For few days we rent a car. I love random stops - the views + coffee places you would never expect.

Our accommodation
Hostels, riads along with terraces - beautiful views and having breakfasts, appartmens - very private, cottage in the mountains, desert - sleeping under the stars.

Train stations 
Every train station in Morocco is special, unique and very impressive.

Graffiti
I call that local art.

Local people
Locals are nice, always kind and very helpful.

Local gastronomy

Tajine.

Couscous.

Moroccan soup.

Tea - always with lots of sugar.

Examples of breakfast - my favourite part of the day.

I just love Moroccan pancakes with Amlou.

Toast or omellete.

And that´s it. I consider Morocco as a safe country, full of kind people and good gastronomy. It´s also very cheap and practically behind the corner. I love their mountains so next time I will go there (and that is for sure) I would like to do some 4-5 days treks. This part of Africa should definitely be on your bucket list. You will not regret it. I wasn´t.

Best regards
Misa